That looks like…. hmm. a pound or so of fluff? (i’m bad at estimating, but that looks like it’d work out to about two grocery bags, which i thiiiiink is about what a pound of roving usually fits into?) which i usually get onto three or four bobbins, so… 600 yards of two-ply? or so? depending on the thickness?
and yeah, angora rabbits will lie there happily on your lap and rejoice in the feeling of all that extra fluff being removed. apparently they love it.
Finished Hip Circumference: 28 (31, 34, 37, 40) inches
Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 inches, with directions to adjust
Finished Length from Shoulder to Underarm: 7 ½ (8 ¼, 9 ¼, 9 ¾, 10) inches
Finished Length from Sleeve Cuff to Underarm: 16 (17, 19, 19 ½, 20 ½) inches, with direction to adjust
NOTE: Size Small sweater shown here on 34-inch bust dressform with 3 ½ inches of ease. Please pay close attention to finished dimensions above when selecting which size to make!
Pattern Notes
Slip 1, k2tog, psso (or sk2p): This is a left-slanting double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle.
Knit 3 together (or k3tog): This is a right-slanting double decrease. Insert right needle into next three stitches as if to knit. Knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch.
Begin Sleeves
With the smaller sized double pointed needles, cast on 42 (45, 51, 54, 60) stitches.
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge.
Change to larger double pointed needles.
Round 2: K35 (38, 44, 47, 53), place different color marker (pm), [p1, k2] two times, p1.
** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)
Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.
Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.
Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches
Repeat Round 3. 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) stitches
Note: If you are particularly short (or long) limbed and would like to adjust the length of the sleeve,
repeat Round 4 fewer (or more) times between increase rounds.
Next Round: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.
Place remaining 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches on scrap yarn or a spare circular needle.
Make a second sleeve identical to the first.
Begin Body
With the smaller, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, cast on 168 (186, 204, 222, 240) stitches.
Place marker and connect for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Next Round (increase round): *K5, k1fb, [k8, k1fb] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) times, [k2, p1] two times, repeat from * to end of round. 186 (206, 226, 246, 266 stitches)
Next Round: With larger, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126), place different color marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until piece measures 3 ¼ (3 ¼, 3 ¼, 3 ½, 3 ½, 4) inches from cast on edge.
Mark for Pouch (Optional)
Note: If you are not making the pouch, skip to the “Continue” section.
Round 1: K7, mark this 7th stitch with a removable stitch marker, *knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue working in established pattern until piece measures 10 (10 ¼, 10 ½, 11, 12) inches from cast on edge.
Make the Pouch (Optional)
With the extra larger circular needle, starting with (and including) the marked stitch, slip the point of the needle under the right leg of the following 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) stitches
Remove the removable marker.
For this section, you will be working just the 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) pouch stitches. You’ll work back and forth in rows, turning the piece at the end of each row.
Row 1 (right side): K1, p1, [k2, p1] two times, knit to last 8 stitches, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, k1, [p2, k1] two times, purl to last 8 stitches, [k1, p2] two times, k1, p1.
Row 3 (decrease row): K1, p1, [k2, p1] two times, ssk, knit to last 10 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1. (2 stitches decreased)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eighteen (19, 20, 21, 22) more times. 36 (44, 52, 60, 68) stitches
Repeat Row 2.
Cut yarn, leaving the stitches on the needle.
Graft the Pouch (Optional)
To graft the pouch stitches to the body of the sweater…
Returning to the body of the sweater and continuing from where you left off, k25 (26, 27, 28, 29). Now holding the pouch needle and sweater needle parallel to each other, *knit one stitch from the front pouch needle together with one stitch from the back sweater needle, repeat from *until all the pouch stitches have been knit. Now continuing with just the body stitches and working again in the round, **knit to next marker, [p1, k2], two times, p1, repeat from ** to end of round.
Continue
Continue working in established pattern until body of sweater measures 14 inches from cast on edge or desired length to underarm.
Attach the Sleeves
Round 1: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker), knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1. 179 (199, 217, 235, 253) stitches
Round 2: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker), knit to first stitch holder, pm, orient the sleeve’s on-hold underarm stitches so they are parallel and next to the body’s on-hold underarm stitches and knit the sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch to the right of the stitches on hold), pm, knit to next stitch holder, pm, knit the second sleeve stitches, place a different color marker (this is the new end of the round). 294 (332, 356, 386, 414) total stitches: 86 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches for front and back, 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches for each sleeve
Begin Raglan
Round 1: *P1, k2, p1, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to three stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Round 1 two more times.
Next Round (decrease round): *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to five stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased)
Repeat Round 1.
Repeat last two rounds sixteen (19, 21, 23, 25) more times. 158 (172, 180, 194, 206) total stitches: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches for front and back, 27 (30, 30, 33, 35) stitches for each sleeve
Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck
You will no longer be working in the round but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 26, 28, 30), turn work so that wrong side (the inside of the sweater) is facing you. Where you just turned will now be considered the end of the row, and what was previously considered the end-of-round marker is now just a regular marker.
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 152 (166, 174, 186, 198) total stitches
Row 3 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 138 (152, 160, 170, 182) stitches
Row 4: Bind off 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 135 (149, 157, 166, 178) stitches
Row 5 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 3, (3, 3, 4, 4) knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 124 (138, 146, 154, 166) stitches
Row 6 : Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 122 (136, 144, 151, 163) stitches
Row 7 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 112 (126, 134, 140, 152) stitches
Row 8: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end.
Row 9 (raglan shaping row): Ssk, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. (10 stitches decreased)
Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more times. 82 (86, 84, 100, 102) total stitches: 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) total for the front, 40 (42, 44, 50, 52) for back, 15 (16, 14, 19, 19) for each sleeve
For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve
For XS Size Only
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 66 total stitches: 10 for right and left front, 34 for back, 11 for each sleeve
For Medium Size Only
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. 78 stitches: 10 for right and left front, 40 for back, 14 for each sleeve
For Large Size Only
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve
For XLarge Size Only
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve
Make Neckband
For this section, you will once again be working in the round, no longer back and forth in rows.
Continuing with the right side facing you and now using the smaller, 16-inch circular needle, pm (new beginning of round), pick up 30 (33, 36 ,36 ,39) stitches evenly along the front neckline. Continuing around the remaining 66 (78, 78, 90, 90) stitches, *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round. 96 (111, 114, 126, 129) stitches
Next Round: *K1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until ribbing measures 1 ¼ (1 ¼, 1 ½ ,1 ¾ , 2) inches.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Finish Underarms
Slip one pair of underarm stitches from the stitch holders to two double pointed needles. Holding the needles parallel to one another, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft closed the underarm.
A Hogwarts student that uses their wand as a knitting needle, and everything they knit is imbued with magic.
A scarf that can never be lost. Waterproof gloves. Socks that keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. A christmas jumper with moving patterns.
MAGICAL KNITTING
This is why Dumbledore was interested in knitting patterns
i want this
But what are you doing for the other needle? Does it matter if only one needle is magic? What about dpns? Circs? Crochet? Little attachments to turn the end of a wand into a hook?
But x2: spells that solve tension issues. No more rowing out. Spells that tighten up that last knit stitch in k2p2 ribbing. Shrink resistant wool? Blocking without the faff? Spells that pick up a dropped and laddered stitch? Spells that neaten the last stitch before a colour change. SPELLS TO WEAVE IN ENDS, GUYS.
And: yarn that doesn’t snap. Or repairs itself when it does. No more changing over to new balls of yarn – ends that just spiny themselves together flawlessly. Variegated yarn that changes colours. Yarn where intarsia designs appear after you finish knitting them.
Top photo: Mr. Ali Mohammad Beigh, perhaps the most renowned Kashmiri craftsman in fine needlework / embroidery called “sozni.” He works with silk threads on pashmina shawls. Each sozni will take him almost 3 years to finish (!!) and they are very highly valued.
I spent a morning in Mr. Beigh’s studio, photographing him and watching his work. He described it as a meditation. He sits and embroiders the sozni for 8 hours every day – amazing.
Below that: an embroidered sozni from Beigh’s workshop; silk threads in the workshop; brushes in the workshop of Mr. Maqbool, a local paper maché artisan; painted walls (locally referred to as “Naquashi”) in a 17th century shrine in Srinagar.
Inexplicably annoyed by men writing about knitting!
???????
The tags on this are extraordinary:
girlfriend: *does a completely harmless craft that she enjoys, creating something while she watches tv*
boyfriend: “what is this anti-feminist spinster shit, i’m so alienated”
Swatches for my eventual Shetland shawl. My first efforts at combing a fleece. White and brown fleeces, and the middle is a blend. Combed before I had quite figured out how to separate the coats so I may have to swatch again if the separated yarns are sufficiently different. But I’m pleased so far.
Kimchi and Justice 